


Hemingway was right. Man is more primal up here in the mountains. Still, I'd have traded my right arm for a good steambath after a rigorous, cold, bloody day on the trail. Determined to endure like a primitive, Suzy and I ate smoked sausages and pickled herrings, topped off with a really decent Cabernet the escort service packed along. Thank God the bears didn't bother her or it would have been a long, lonely, hungry night at 12,500 feet above sea level with nothing to do but blink at the blazing stars overhead and think about how small we are, when you really get down to it.
- AC